Choquequirao Trek Guide: Day by Day to Machu Picchu's Sister Citadel
The Choquequirao trek is a 4-day, 3-night hike from Cusco to an Inca citadel that has no road and no train: the only way in is on foot, down into the Apurimac Canyon and up the other side. Day 1 drops from Capuliyoc to Chikiska, Day 2 is the hard one, a climb of about 1,500 m in 3 to 4 hours to Marampata, Day 3 is a full morning at Choquequirao (3,040 m) and Day 4 climbs back out to Capuliyoc, with Cusco reached at around 9:00 pm. You sleep in rural lodges, not tents, the altitude is lower than on the Inca Trail or Salkantay, and you will very likely have the ruins almost to yourself. What it asks for is strong legs and two long climbs.
The Choquequirao trek at a glance
| Day | Route | What makes the day | Night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Cusco – Saywite – Cachora – Chikiska | 6:30 am start, 3.5 h drive to the Saywite Stone, lunch in Cachora, then about 3 h downhill from the Capuliyoc viewpoint | Rural lodge, Chikiska |
| Day 2 | Chikiska – Playa Rosalina – Santa Rosa – Marampata | 1 h down to the Apurimac River, then about 1,500 m of climbing in 3 to 4 hours; free afternoon | Lodge, Marampata |
| Day 3 | Marampata – Choquequirao – Santa Rosa Baja | A full morning in the citadel (3,040 m), lunch brought up by the muleteer, then down to Santa Rosa Baja | Lodge, Santa Rosa Baja |
| Day 4 | Santa Rosa – Chikiska – Capuliyoc – Cusco | 1.5 h down to the river, breakfast in Chikiska, then a 3.5 to 4 h climb to Capuliyoc and the drive back | Cusco, around 9:00 pm |
What is Choquequirao, and why go?
Choquequirao, whose Quechua name is usually translated as the Cradle of Gold, is an Inca citadel built on a spur of the Andes about 1,500 m above the Apurimac River, on the border between the Cusco and Apurimac regions. Its plazas, temples, water channels and long stairways of terraces spread across the ridge in much the same way as Machu Picchu's, which is why it is so often called its sister city.
Archaeologists generally link it to the Inca royal families of the 15th century, and later to the Incas who held out in the Vilcabamba region after the Spanish conquest. Large parts of it were cleared only in recent decades, and work on the site continues.
What makes it special today is not only what you see but how few people see it. Machu Picchu receives thousands of visitors every day by train and bus. Choquequirao can only be reached by walking for two days, so on most mornings our groups share the main plaza with a handful of other hikers, or with nobody at all.
Choquequirao vs Machu Picchu: how do they compare?
| Choquequirao | Machu Picchu | |
|---|---|---|
| How you get there | Only on foot: 2 days of hiking each way | Train to Aguas Calientes and a 25-minute bus, or the Inca Trail |
| Altitude of the site | 3,040 m | 2,430 m (7,970 ft) |
| Visitors | Very few; often you are alone | Up to 4,500 a day in regular months, more at peak times |
| Time inside | A full, unhurried morning with your guide | 2 hours 30 minutes on most routes, by circuit and entry hour |
| Permits | Entrance ticket only, no quota system | Named ticket for a date, circuit and hour, which sells out in high season |
| Effort | Challenging: two long climbs out of a canyon | Easy by train; the Inca Trail is a 4-day trek |
| Best for | Hikers who want an Inca site without crowds | Everyone, and every first visit to Peru |
They are not rivals. If this is your first trip to Peru, see Machu Picchu: our guide to the Machu Picchu circuits explains which ticket to choose. Choquequirao is for the traveler who has already seen it, or who wants a real trek and an Inca city in silence on the same trip.
Day 1: Cusco to Saywite, Cachora and down to Chikiska
We meet at Plaza Regocijo in Cusco at 6:30 am (or collect you from your hotel) and drive west for about three and a half hours to the Saywite Archaeological Park. Its famous carved stone is covered with more than a hundred small figures of terraces, canals, animals and stairways, often read as a model of the Inca world. The Saywite entrance fee is not included, so carry a little cash in soles.
Another hour by road brings us to Cachora, the village where the trail starts, for lunch with the Apurimac Canyon and the snow-capped Padreyoc peak in front of you. From the Capuliyoc viewpoint the canyon opens below you: the river is a thin line at the bottom, and Choquequirao sits on the far side, higher up.
The afternoon walk is about 3 hours downhill through the Cocamasana viewpoints to Chikiska, where dinner and the first rural lodge are waiting, with double or twin beds. Downhill sounds easy, but it is steep and dusty: trekking poles make a big difference to your knees.
Day 2: the river and the 1,500 m climb to Marampata
This is the day people talk about afterwards. We leave Chikiska early and walk down for about an hour to Playa Rosalina, on the bank of the Apurimac River, and cross the bridge. From here it is all uphill.
The first section, 1.5 to 2 hours to Santa Rosa, climbs in zigzags with some shade, which is why we start before the sun is high. After a rest, another 1.5 to 2 hours take you to the village of Marampata. In total you gain about 1,500 metres in 3 to 4 hours of walking, at your own pace, with your guide at the back of the group.
Lunch is in Marampata and the afternoon is free. From the lodge you can already see Choquequirao across the ridge, and the evening light on the canyon is one of the best moments of the trek. Go to bed early: tomorrow is the reason you came.
Day 3: a full morning in Choquequirao
From Marampata it is a gentler walk to the site. We spend the whole morning exploring Choquequirao (3,040 m, the highest point of the trek): the main plaza and the buildings around it, the ceremonial upper platform with views in every direction, the water channels and fountains, and the long flights of terraces that drop down the mountainside.
Our muleteer carries lunch up to the archaeological site, so there is no need to rush back. You eat with the citadel around you, which is something no visitor to Machu Picchu can do.
In the afternoon we walk back through Marampata and keep descending to Santa Rosa Baja for dinner and the last night, which puts us in position for the climb out on Day 4.
The llama terraces, Choquequirao's signature
Ask your guide to take you to the llama terraces on the western slope. On the stone retaining walls, the Inca builders set lines of white stones forming the figures of llamas, walking in caravan down the hillside. There is nothing like them at Machu Picchu.
They are a long walk down and back up, on steep steps, so your guide will decide with the group how far to go depending on time and energy. If you have the legs for it, it is worth every step: for many of our travelers it is the photograph of the trip.
Day 4: back across the canyon to Capuliyoc and Cusco
We start early with a snack and walk down for about 1.5 hours to the Apurimac River, then another hour to Chikiska for breakfast. The last climb, 3.5 to 4 hours up to Capuliyoc, is the second hard effort of the trek, but your legs are stronger now and the end is in sight.
Lunch is waiting at Capuliyoc, facing the canyon you have just crossed twice. Our transport then drives you back to Cusco, where the trek ends at around 9:00 pm. Do not book a flight out of Cusco for the same evening.
How hard is the Choquequirao trek?
We rate it challenging. It is not technical and there is no climbing with hands, but the profile is unusual: instead of crossing one high pass, you go down into a canyon and up the other side, twice. The big efforts are the climb to Marampata on Day 2 (about 1,500 m in 3 to 4 hours) and the climb to Capuliyoc on Day 4 (3.5 to 4 hours). The long descents are hard on knees.
The good news is the altitude. The highest point is 3,040 m at Choquequirao, lower than Cusco itself (3,400 m (11,150 ft)). Compared with the Inca Trail, which crosses 4,215 m (13,828 ft), or the Salkantay Pass at 4,600 m, altitude sickness is much less of a problem on this trek. Heat and sun at the bottom of the canyon are more of an issue: carry water and start early.
If you walk regularly, can hike 6 to 7 hours with breaks and have trained on stairs or hills in the weeks before, you will be fine. Our guide to how hard the Inca Trail is is a useful comparison if you are choosing between treks.
Where you sleep and what you eat
There is no camping on our Choquequirao trek. The three nights are in simple rural lodges run by local families: Chikiska on the first night (double or twin beds), Marampata on the second and Santa Rosa Baja on the third. Expect basic rooms and shared bathrooms; some lodges charge a small amount for a hot shower.
The trek includes 3 breakfasts, 4 lunches and 3 dinners, from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 4. Breakfast on Day 1 and dinner on Day 4 are on your own. Water and drinks along the route are sold by the families, so you pay in cash.
What is included, and what you pay for on the trail
- Price: our Choquequirao Trek 4 days costs US$360 per person, in groups of 2 to 16 hikers, with group departures every Monday.
- Included: hotel or Plaza Regocijo pickup, transport Cusco–Cachora and Capuliyoc–Cusco, the Choquequirao entrance ticket, a specialized bilingual guide, 3 nights in rural lodges, the meals listed above, the visit to Saywite and a first-aid kit.
- Not included: the Saywite entrance fee, travel and medical insurance, horses or pack mules, sleeping bag and trekking pole rental, extra drinks and snacks, and tips for the guide and support team.
- Cash only: there are no ATMs and no card payments in Chikiska, Santa Rosa or Marampata. Bring enough soles in small notes for drinks, showers, extras and tips.
- Optional mule: you carry only a day pack. If you hire a horse or pack mule, the rest of your gear goes in a duffel bag; luggage you do not need stays at your hotel in Cusco.
What to pack for Choquequirao
- A day pack of 20 to 30 liters with a rain cover, which you carry every day.
- Broken-in trekking shoes with good grip; the trail is steep, dusty when dry and slippery when wet.
- Trekking poles. On this trek more than any other, they save your knees on the long descents (they can be rented).
- Light, quick-drying clothes for the hot canyon floor, plus a fleece and a warm layer for the evenings in Marampata and Santa Rosa.
- A rain jacket, even in the dry season.
- Sun protection: SPF 50+ sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. The canyon is hot and exposed in the middle of the day.
- Insect repellent: the lower parts of the canyon have biting insects.
- Two liters of water capacity and some purification tablets or a filter bottle.
- Headlamp, power bank, toilet paper and a small towel.
- Original passport, needed for the entrance ticket, and cash in soles.
- Our Salkantay Trek packing list has a fuller checklist that also works here; just leave the heaviest cold-weather gear behind.
When is the best time for the Choquequirao trek?
Choquequirao is open all year and we run the trek every month. The dry season, from May to November, brings sunny days, clear views of the canyon and cold nights. The rainy season, from December to April, means fewer hikers but more mud, slippery steps and clouds that can hide the views.
Our team's favorite months are April and May: the rains are ending, the valley is still green and in flower, and the skies are clearing. In the dry months the bottom of the canyon can be very hot by late morning, which is one more reason for our early starts.
For a month-by-month view of the region, see our guide to the best time to visit Machu Picchu.
Do you need to acclimatize before Choquequirao?
Yes, but less than for other treks. You start from Cusco at 3,400 m (11,150 ft), so arrive at least one full day before and spend it resting or on an easy walk around town. Because the trek itself stays below 3,100 m, most people find that Cusco is the highest place they sleep on the whole trip.
Our guide to altitude sickness in Cusco explains which symptoms are normal in the first 48 hours and which ones are not.
Can you combine Choquequirao with Machu Picchu?
Yes, with separate trips. Most of our travelers do Choquequirao first, rest for a day in Cusco and then go to Machu Picchu by train, which makes an excellent contrast: the empty Inca city and the famous one in the same week. Our guide on how to get to Machu Picchu from Cusco explains the train and bus.
There are longer routes that link Choquequirao and Machu Picchu on foot through the Vilcabamba mountains, over 8 days or more. They are serious expeditions; ask us if you are interested and we will tell you honestly whether they fit your experience and dates.
Our tips from the trail
- Start every climb early. The canyon heats up fast; the hours before 10:00 am are your friends.
- Walk the descents slowly, with poles and short steps. Sore knees on Day 2 are a common reason for a hard Day 4.
- Eat and drink before you are hungry or thirsty, especially on the climb to Marampata.
- Bring small notes. Changing a 100-sol note in a village of a few houses is not always possible.
- Do not plan anything for the evening of Day 4 or the next morning: you arrive in Cusco late and tired.
- Tell us about knee or back problems when you book. A mule for the climbs can make the difference.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need for the Choquequirao trek?
Four days and three nights is the standard and the one we recommend: two days to reach the site, a full morning there and one long day back. Faster versions exist, but they turn the trek into a race and leave little time at the ruins.
How hard is the Choquequirao trek?
Challenging. The hardest parts are the climb of about 1,500 m from the Apurimac River to Marampata on Day 2, in 3 to 4 hours, and the 3.5 to 4-hour climb back to Capuliyoc on Day 4. The altitude is lower than on the Inca Trail or Salkantay, with a highest point of 3,040 m.
Is Choquequirao better than Machu Picchu?
It is different. Machu Picchu is more complete and easier to reach; Choquequirao is quieter and wilder, and you can explore it for a whole morning almost alone. For a first trip to Peru choose Machu Picchu; if you have seen it or want a real trek, choose Choquequirao.
Do I need a permit for Choquequirao?
You need an entrance ticket, which is included in our trek, but there is no daily quota like on the Inca Trail. You can usually book a few weeks ahead. Carry your original passport.
Where do you sleep on the Choquequirao trek?
In rural lodges run by local families, not in tents: Chikiska on the first night, Marampata on the second and Santa Rosa Baja on the third.
Can I hire a mule or a horse?
Yes. Horses and pack mules can be hired for an extra cost. A pack mule carries your duffel bag so that you only walk with a day pack; a riding horse can help on the long climbs.
Are there ATMs or card payments on the trail?
No. There are no ATMs and no card payments in Chikiska, Santa Rosa or Marampata. Bring cash in soles for drinks, showers, extras and tips.
What is the best month for the Choquequirao trek?
Our team recommends April and May, at the end of the rains, with green landscapes and clearing skies. The dry season runs from May to November and the rainy season from December to April; the trek runs all year.
Official sources: Ministry of Culture of Peru
